Struga

(Macedonian: Струга)

Struga is a town situated in the south-western region of the Republic of Macedonia, lying on the shore of Lake Ohrid. The town of Struga is a seat of the Struga Municipality. Struga is located in an open valley on the magnificent Lake Ohrid. The Black Drim river starts at the lake and divides the city.

The city is the capital of poetry and one of the cradles of the Macedonian spiritual revival in the 19th century, for it is the birthplace of the outstanding poets and educators, the brothers Dimitar and Konstantin Miladinov. Here, one is charmed by the source of the river Crni Drim, which flows into Lake Ohrid and runs across it, only to emerge again with its clear and greenish water, and beautify the already delightful town of Struga.

This town is a famous tourist resort, and it is an eternal inspiration for poets from all over the world. Since 1962, each year at the second half of August, the Struga Poetry Evenings held in honour of brothers Miladinovci, have gathered poets from all the continents. The Struga Poetry Festival is one of the oldest, largest, and most renowned of its kind in the world. At the spectacular poetic event entitled "Bridges", poets read their works from the bridge under which the River Crni Drim flows out of Lake Ohrid, before an audience of some ten thousand people. Some of the greatest poets of the world are recipients of the Golden Wreath, the highest accolade of the festival.

• Number of inhabitants: 63.376
• Area: 483 sq. km
• Geographic position: 41o 10’ 03’’ N, 20o 40’ 40’’ E
• Climate: Mild continental
• Average temperature:
• Time zone: Central European Time (GMT +1)
• Postal Code: 6330
• Local area code: 046

Living in the shade of Ohrid permanently, Struga offers everything you have in Ohrid, but in more favourable prices. A number of restaurants such as: Alexander, Angela, Klimetitsa – Macedonian House, Saint Nicolas, Geneva, T’ga za Jug (Longing for South), Bread & Wine will certainly help you feel nice and enjoy here.

Struga is an ancient settlement where traces of an old civilization dating from the Neolithic period can be found. The archaelogical records demonstrate that there was a community in this area in prehistoris times, when on the shores of the lake were built the first Neolithic settlements dated from the year 3000 BC. The first Neolithic settlement, which is assumed to have been a fishing area, was built on the place where the river Crn Drim flows out of the Lake Ohrid. It is a pile dweller, an ancient fisherman community. Many archaelogical objects were found there that date from the early stone age, such as different tools made of stone and bones as well as weapons.

It is considered, according to some relevant sources, that the first inhabitants of this area were the Briges and the Enheleians, and later came the Desarets. With the passing of the centuries this fishing settlement grew into a town-like village which was called Enhalon (eel). The name is accidental. Namely, here on the outflow of the river Crn Drim from the Lake Ohrid, the longest journey of the eel starts, which leads to the Sargasso Sea in the Caribean region of the Atlantic ocean where the fish satisfies its biological needs for continuing its kind. The ancient historian Polibius says that in the year 334 BC, king Philip II (stavi link) of Macedon, conquered Enhalon in addition to Lihnidos and the other towns on the shores of Lake Ohrid. There is an important monument from that period with inscription in classical Greek, discovered by the monastery of St. Bogoroditsa (the Virgin Mary). Enhalon was part of the Macedonian state until the year 148 BC when it was conquered by the Romans. The connection of this area and Rome grew closer with the construction of the strategic road Via Ignatia, which connected Rome, through the town known today as Drach and through Thessalonica, to Istanbul and Asia Minor. The road was passing close to Enhalon.

With the spread of Christianity by the end of the 3th century AD the ancient temples were destroyed and on the same place many Christian basilicas were built. Their remains have been and are still being discovered in the surroundings of Struga. The antiochian bishop St. Erazmo is considered to be the first Christian missionary in this area.

The name Struga was mentioned for the first time in a document dated from the XI century. In another document dated from the XVI century (Kalimanova Gramota) there is a royal issue: "The incomes of the fishing area in the town of Struga should be given to the monastery Zoograf". The legends say that St. Kliment Ohridski founded a school in Struga. The grounds and the river which was passing through have the name Klimetitsa even today. It is considered that the medieval Macedonian tsar Samoil built a church in Struga devoted to St. George and also erected a church in the village of Vranishta. On his demands one hundred bridges were built over the river Crn Drim, according to the byzantine traveler and author Ana Komnena.

In the VI century Enhalon, Lihnidos and the other inhabited places were in the frames of the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Empire. In this period the Brsjatsi tribe settled in this area changing the name Enhalon with a new one, Struga, on which historians and linguists have different opinions; some say that the word comes from the word STRIG (to fleece sheep) and some claim that it means a passage for sheep through a fence which was called STRAGA, STROGA, STRUGA. In addition, there are some claims that Struga means a river branch, a tributary or a river flow.

In the medieval times Struga was frequently visited by authors who wrote about their travels. One of them is Bernard (1591) who describes Struga as caravan-station with caravan-inns, as a crossroad for many caravans. The famous Turkish traveller Evliya Cheleby, who visited Struga in 1671, describes the town in detail. Struga used to be a great fishing are, especially for eel. The local Turkish ruler by the name of Eminaga, who lived in Struga then, from his rich incomes, built a large bridge on the mouth of the river Drim. On the bridge he built his palace (Saray). The traveller Cheleby wrote that the town was built by the lake and consisted of 300 houses all built of hard material. Cheleby adds that the climate is pleasant, and that there are 3 inns and 40 stores in the town. In this town, says the traveler, twice a year a big fair takes place which is visited by up to 50 000 people. During the 10 days of the fair, people traded their goods and celebrated the fair. The crowd of people gathered there is undescribeable, according to Cheleby. In the vicinity of Struga 300 stores were built for the purposes of the fair. Even today the name of the location, described by Cheleby, where the fair was taking place is preserved - Panagjurishte ("panagjur" means a fair in Macedonian).

In 1783 the Englishman John Bew in London printed the map "Turkey in Europe" where one can find Struga. The chronicler Nikola Pop Stefanov in his "Chronicles" says: "June 6, 1808. We built Geladin Bey's Saray on the river. And it was a terrible forced labour..." The saray was built in the middle of the river Drim and was a quite atractive object visited by many authors who wrote about their travels and were passing through Struga.

In the years to come, on the sky over Struga, two brighest Macedonian stars would appear, the fighters of the spiritual freedom and self-awareness of the Macedonian people, the dearest sons of Struga, the brothers Dimitri and Konstantin Miladinovtsi. Dedicated to their mission, they would leave to their people the Golden Book of Macedonian renaissance - the Collection of Macedonian Folk Songs. Their lives tragically ended in a Turkish prison in Istanbul in 1862. The citizens of Struga, in the following years, will get involved in the spiritual and the national liberation. They would take an active part in the Ilinden uprising (1903) and the National Liberation Movement (1941-1945). There is an interesting information that right here in Struga the Macedonian National Anthem "Today over Macedonia..." was sang for the first time by its author Vlado Maleski.

In the period after the Second World War the town lives its renaissance in all fields. Struga becomes a modern town with wonderful banks and wide streets, with many parks and greenery, with beautiful new buildings, trade and industrial areas, and catering objects and cultural institutions. In honor of the Miladinovtsi brothers every year a renowned festival of poetry is held - "The Struga Poetry Evenings", where many famous world poets take part. Today in Struga there are around 18 000 inhabitants, living in 5430 apartments.

And again, you may do the same here as in Ohrid and to feel even better. You may swim in the lake, ride your bike around Struga and the hills near by, take a nice walk and visit the churches in the caves, sail your little boat but also play tennis in some of the courts.

A lot of cafeterias will open their doors in front of you, you may also visit the Oasa (Oasis) or Glamour night clubs and enjoy your holiday in Struga.

• By car: 170 south-west far from Skopje, or 15 km from Ohrid
• By plane: www.airports.com.mk (Skopje)
• By bus: www.sas.com.mk (Skopje)
• By train: No railway to Struga

STRUGA- POETRY AND BRIDGES

The spirit of Struga is tender. Located on the shores of Lake Ohrid, the city is laced with bridges, dotted with delightful architecture, and linked by lanes. Everywhere its romantic soul is apparent. The Black Drim River flows through the heart of the city after it journeys from the springs near St. Naum through Lake Ohrid. From Struga it continues across Albania to the Adriatic Sea. Once known as "Enchalon" -Eel, Struga welcomes eels all the way from the Sargasso Sea. Nowadays, Struga is better known for its annual international poetry festival, "The Struga Poetry Evenings". Poems are read from the bridges to add to their romance. Struga is the birthplace of the most eminent representatives of the Macedonian culture and national revival in 19th century, the brothers Constantine and Dimitar Miladinov. Since 1962 Constantine's famous poem "Longing for the South", traditionally opens this major world poetry festival.

And, in the mountains to the north is the wildest festival of them all, the Vevcani Carnival, where anything goes! Many other villages in the mountains and along the lake offer memorable experiences for visitors wishing to get off the beaten track and discover the rural charm of an ancient land.

CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE

Built in 1835 over a much older church from the 16th century, the small church of St. George stands in the centre of Struga. It contains frescos from the end of 19th century, but its real treasure is a small gallery of icons from 13th to 19th century, including the well known icon of St. George painted in 1267. A long inscription on the back of the icon mentions "Struga of Ohrid"

THE NATURE MUSEUM

The Natural History Museum was founded in 1928 by Dr. Nikola Nezlobinski. Initially featuring his own collection, it now contains a wide variety of insects, birds, fish, and animals from the Ohrid & Prespa region.

VANGEL KODJOMAN GALLERY

Vangel Kodjoman is one of the most prominent contemporary painters of Macedonia. Most of his work has been dedicated to his land and people. His paintings show scenes of old houses leaning over the narrow streets and a life that no longer exists. Some of his finest paintings are permanently exhibited in this gallery located in the middle of Struga.

BLACK DRIM RIVER

The Black Drim River flows out from Lake Ohrid near the "Drim" hotel and continues all the way to the Adriatic Sea. The banks of the river are an ideal place for romantic strolls. Each year, at the end of August you can listen to poets from all over the world reciting poetry in dozens of different languages. It is an inspiring occasion.

CAVE CHURCH ARCHANGEL MICHAEL IN RADOZDA

In a natural cave on a steep rock above the village of Radozda is a church dedicated to Archangel Michael. It is one of the oldest cave churches discovered on the shores of Lake Ohrid. Its frescos, painted on the uneven wall of the cave, date back to the end of 13th century.

A close examination reveals the extraordinarily beautiful presentation of the Archangel Michael in the composition of the Miracle of Cana. Nearby is a fishermen's village with excellent restaurants.

CAVE CHURCHES IN KALISTA

The small cave church of the Nativity of the Virgin, is situated high in the rocks on the western shore of Lake Ohrid near the village of Kalista and close to a monastery complex. Entry into the church is gained through a wall (which also provides the church's apse) into the natural space of the cave. The interor of the church was painted during the 15th or 16th century.

Nearby, on a steep cliff overlooking Lake Ohrid is another cave church, dedicated to St. Athanasios. The natural opening of the cave has been used as a nave while the apse and the eastern wall are built of craggy stones. An old painting in the church is attributed to the second half of the 14th or the first half of the 15th century.

VISNI

Located at the foot of the beautiful Jablanica Mountain about 10km northwest of Struga is the pretty village of Visni. It is surrounded by a forest of beech and oak trees. The cave church of the Holy Savior is a 3km walk from the village along a brook in a beautiful canyon. The fresco that decorates the wall and ceiling is dated from the end of the 14-th century.

EARLY CHRISTIAN BASILICA IN OKTISI

Located near Vevcani in the mountain village of Oktisi is an ancient Christian basilica from the end of 5th or the beginning of 6th century. The mosaic floor of the church is richly decorated with representations of deer, horses, flowers, trees, and geometrical ornamentation.

VEVCANI

Vevcani is a large village located 14 km northwest of Struga. It is built on a steep hillside and sheltered by a mountain. Its architecture is most appealing with many old houses and buildings of all styles and shapes. The sound of water can be heard running through channels throughout the village. It comes from the famous Vevcani Springs which have a water flow of between 400-4000 litres per second. Old water mills still grind corn, wheat and other grains as they have for centuries. Walk through the rich chestnut tree forest, climb up to the village of Gorna Belica or the glacial lakes.

VAJTOS

On the marked walking trails above Vevcani are the remains of the old Roman road, the Via Egnatia. It goes through a beautiful forest to Vajtos, an ancient stopping place and vantage point used by trade caravans traveling between the Adriatic coast and the Black Sea. The panoramic view over the whole Lake Ohrid valley is spectacular.

GORNA BELICA

Located 1,600 meters above the tree line and close to the Albanian border, the village of Gorna Belica can be reached by driving, biking or walking from Struga, or by hiking from Vevcani. Nowadays, only two elderly ladies live all year round in the village, although other residents visit on weekends and holidays. The church of St. Petkai is undergoing restoration, but the two ladies are happy to tell its story and that of the saint. The owners of some of the holiday houses offer accommodation in their homes, and there is a modern hotel in the centre of the village.